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When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble shop earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary triumph.